Date: Thursday
4 March 1999
Venue: Church Rooms, Stow
on the Wold
Honey bees are very hygienic.
They live in hives which can become very warm and humid. If they were not
so hygienic, bacteria, fungus and mould would break out.
What does the beekeeper need
to consider when thinking about hygiene ?
The Environment
The Quality of the Hive and
Equipment
The Bees
The
Environment
In high areas like much of
the North Cotswolds, hives need shelter from the north and east. Strong northerlies
in particular, can be very damaging.
Find a location which is safe
from flooding
Beware of frost pockets
Do not place hives too close
to large groups of trees as these will cause vibration
Avoid overhead power cables
which generate large electromagnetic fields which affect bees which do not
cross them
Avoid anywhere that wasps may
nest
Avoid anywhere that Green Woodpeckers
frequent
Ensure good access
Choose a place where, if possible,
hives may be placed in a crescent
Never align hives in a straight
line. If linear, angle them so entrances point in different angles
If gathering a swarm, place
it in an outer hive first to make sure they don’t bring diseases in
Try to locate hives by a water
source. Need water nearby. If no pool or brook, fill a tyre with stones and
keep damp for water – carrying bees to settle on
Plant the right sort of trees
and bulbs around hives e.g. Pussy Willow. Gives the bees a good start to the
year.
The
Quality of the Hive and Equipment
Ensure no holes in the side
of the hive
Ensure no Woodpecker damage
Can treat the external parts
of the hive with Cuprinol Clear (Cuprinol produce a leaflet on treating hives)
or Ronseal Fence Life. Research in US suggests 25% bee deaths due to treatment
of outside hives, especially with creosote
Fit suitable mouse guards
If bees don’t like certain
air vents etc, they will fill them up
Ensure that hive stand bases
are well off the ground. Fourteen inches is a good height. A milk crate can
be useful
Sterilize the hive suit regularly
Use appropriate materials in
the smoker for burning. Rolls of Cardboard / rotted wood is good
The
Bees
Good bee husbandry is essential.
You really should kill old bad tempered queens.
Be Bee Observant. Keep good
records
A little pocket tape recorder
is useful to dictate when working at the hives
Change the floor on First Inspection
in February/March
On First Inspection, look for
lines on the floor indicating which frames have active bees in them. Need
4 or 5 lines of wax together. If have 2, then gap, then another 2, then have
a problem
How do you assess “gentle bees”?
When lift off the lid of the hive, some bees will just wander about. Others
will stream out and gather on the veil.
Frugal Bees- Some bees will
survive the harshest winters on limited stores. Don’t feed them with sugar
syrup. Leave boxes of honey in the Super at the top. If you give bees sugar,
you are working the bees harder than they normally would do. Surely any beekeeper
can spare the bees 25lbs of honey.
Social Bees – Some bees will
rob out syrup from another colony. If the Social Bees rob out a strong colony
then return to their hive, then need to separate hives.
Chalk Brood Disease – This
is normally activated if the Carbon Dioxide level is too high. It means the
bees are not maintaining good hygiene. It is a genetic trait. If this happens,
you must re-queen the hive.
Temperature Regulation
Humidity
Air flow within the hive
Bees are superb air conditioners
Queen excluder – A Herzog is
the best sort of Queen Excluder. If using a flat & press one, frame it
with beading. By framing it, raise the excluder above the top of the frames
A wooden scraper is best for
cleaning Queen excluders. It ensures that you don’t snag them.
Dead Brood or Addle Brood –
This happens if it is too cold. You can tell that you have it when a whole
range of larvae / eggs all die on the same night
Grooming Bee –This bee grooms
other bees. The recipient bees raise their wings and the grooming bee works
deep under the wing
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